Планы

Веревки «Аскан»
Туюк-Су (Тянь-Шань)

Climbing to the peak of LENIN in 2020
19.07.2020 - 26.09.2020

 Climbing to the peak of LENIN in 2020. Expedition to Pamir (Osh, Kyrgyzstan)

July 19, 2020 - September 26, 2020

The Ural Alpine Club (UVK) invites you to climb the seven-thousandth peak of Lenin (7134 m) in the Pamirs in July - September 2020.
In the program: moving to the base camp of Lenin, acclimatization transitions, climbing to the top of Lenin peak.
We have no intermediaries, together with the Kyrgyz company Achik-Tash NUR, we rent land for the base camp at 3600 m (Lukovaya Polyana) and 4400 m (first camp).

In the base camp at 3600 m (Lukovaya Polyana) we have a dining yurt, showers, toilets and large stationary tents, a wooden pallet and mattresses, accommodation - 2 people. There is a mobile connection! Three meals a day. Transport for 7 seats. You can go to Osh anytime!

In the first camp (4400 m) we built two houses, one for cooks (2 people), the second for instructors and participants for 12 people! The houses are completely ready for living! Tent - dining room, shower, two stationary toilets. Light from the generator. There is internet (paid).

The participants of the first camp are accommodated by two people in large tents of Red Fox on a wooden pallet. Each tent has mattresses.

Lenin Peak (7134 m) - one of the highest peaks of the Pamirs - one of the lightest 7000 meters in complexity and does not require special preparation for the mountains! For beginner high-altitude workers - this is the most suitable option for the first time to test yourself at altitude.




Our TOUR

1 TOUR      August 16 - September 04 (21 days)
2 TOUR     August 23 - September 11 (21 days)
3 TOUR     August 30 - September 19 (21 days)
4 TOUR     September 6 - September 26 (21 days)

Venue: Lenin Peak Base Camp (Osh, Kyrgyzstan)
Arrival of participants in Osh on Sunday and night at the hotel.
or on Monday, but arrival in Osh before 8 in the morning.
Transfer to Achik-Tash camp on Monday, departure at 11 a.m.
Climbing days on Lenin Peak - 19 days (entire program for 21 days)
Descent down, departure in the afternoon and arrival in the evening in Osh - Friday.
Departure from Osh to Moscow - at night from Friday to Saturday or in the afternoon and evening on Saturday

The standard program - 1300 euros - a guide for 6 participants (meals and accommodation in the base and first camp in stationary tents for 2 people, meals and accommodation in a high camp in 3 local high-altitude tents, transport, hotel, border pass).
Economic program - without a guide (accommodation in one's own tent) - 750 euros (border pass, transport, hotel, meals at the base and in the first camp for 4400, grocery set)
As part of the economic program, you can take advantage of paid additional services!

You can stay for another week (4 weeks in the mountains) and try again to climb with guides.
The surcharge is 350 euros (standard program)!

The climbing team at Lenin Peak
1. Ermacek Yuri - Yekaterinburg - mountaineering guide - MS (Snow Bars-2009" (Victory peak - 1992, 1999, 2006 , Khan-Tengri - 17 times, Lenin - 10 times, Korzhenevsky - 2008, 2009, Communism - 2009), "Golden piolet of France" for the pioneering Western Wall Makalu without oxygen (8475 m) - 1997, Annapurna - 1996, Lhodze-Middle to 8000 m, Everest - 2002, 2004, 2006, K-2 to 8000m - 2010)
2. Dvornik Victor - Alma-Ata - guide - mountaineering instructor - 1 st (Lenin - 4 times)
3. Kirzjailin Anatoly - Yekaterinburg - guide - mountaineering instructor - KMS (Lenin-2 times, THAN)
4. Forkulitsa Victor - Orsk - mountaineering instructor - 1st climbing class
5. Ermachek Oleg - Yekaterinburg - Assistant Guide - 2nd climbing class
6. Serhiy Statsenko - Bishkek - Team Chef - KMS Mountaineering



1 TOUR

Arrival in Osh on August 16 (Sunday) in the morning, afternoon, evening or arrival on August 17 (Monday) before 9 a.m.
Climbing Lenin from August 18 (Tuesday) to September 03 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 04 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 05 (Saturday) or September 06 (Sunday)

Climberы from August 16 to September 04

Standard program
1.

Economic program
1.

Infa on arrival -

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 16 (Sunday) at 04.10
 - back on September 5 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 17 (Monday) at 04.10
 - back on September 5 (Saturday) at 05.30




2 TOUR

Arrival in Osh on August 23 (Sunday) in the morning, afternoon, evening or arrival on August 24 (Monday) before 9 a.m.
Climbing Lenin from August 25 (Tuesday) to September 10 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 11 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 12 (Saturday) or September 13 (Sunday)

Climbers from August 23 to September 11

Standard program
1.

Economic program
1.

Infa upon arrival -

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 23 (Sunday) at 04.10
 - back on September 12 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 24 (Monday) at 04.10
 - back on September 12 (Saturday) at 05.30




3 TOUR

Arrival in Osh on August 30 (Sunday) in the morning, afternoon, evening or arrival on August 31 (Monday) before 9 a.m.
Climbing Lenin from September 01 (Tuesday) to September 17 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 18 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 19 (Saturday) or September 20 (Sunday)

Climbers from August 30 to September 19

Standard program
1.

Economic program
1.

Infa upon arrival -

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 30 (Sunday) at 04.10
 - back on September 19 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on August 31 (Monday) at 04.10
 - back on September 19 (Saturday) at 05.30




4 TOUR

Arrival in Osh on  September 06 (Sunday) in the morning, afternoon, evening or arrival on September 07 (Monday) before 9 a.m.
Climbing Lenin from September 08 (Tuesday) to September 24 (Thursday)
Descent to Osh - September 25 (Friday), we will arrive in the evening at 21.00
Departure from Osh - September 26 (Saturday) or September 27 (Sunday)

Climbers from September 06 to September 26

Standard program
1.

Economic program
1.

Infa upon arrival -

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on September 06 (Sunday) at 04.10
 - back on September 26 (Saturday) at 05.30

From Moscow (Sheremetyevo) SU-1894 Aeroflot arrives on September 07 (Monday) at 04.10
 - back on September 26 (Saturday) at 05.30




Attention! Send a copy of your passport to apply for a border pass!

Attention!
We will meet all climbers at Osh Airport!
As soon as the plane lands and you are in the airport lounge, connect to free WIFI, call me on WhatsApp Messenger or send a text message
Yermachek Yuri by mobile phone 7-9617636737 (Beeline).
The car travels to the airport 20 minutes.
While you go through passport control, we will come and meet you at the entrance to the airport building!
If your flight is delayed, please email me on WhatsApp Messenger:

Ascent to Lenin Peak (7134 m). program

1 day (Sunday) - arrival in Osh from Moscow or Istanbul
2 day - transfer from Osh to the base camp 3400 m
3 day - walk to the Travelers pass and back
4 day - walk to the first camp 4400 m
Day 5 - access to the glacier, equipment check
Day 6 - climb to Yukhin 5100 m. Night in a tent
7 day - descent to the first camp 4400 m
8 day - rest 4400 m
Day 9 - walk to the second camp 5400 m
10 day - walk to the third camp 6100 m
11 day - descent to 4400 and descent to the base camp 3500 m.
12 day - rest in the base camp 3500 m
13 day - walk to the first camp 4400 m
14 day - rest in the first camp 4400 m
15 day - walk to the second camp 5100 m
16 day - walk to the third camp 6100 m
Day 17 - climbing Lenin Peak 7134 m
Day 18 - descent to the first camp 4400 m (reserve day)
19 day - rest 4400 m or descent 3400 m
Day 20 (Friday) - descent to the base camp 3400 m, departure to Osh
21 days (Saturday) - flight to Moscow or Istanbul

The cost of the Lenin Peak climbing program includes:
- border pass
- meeting at the airport
- hotel (2 nights)
- transfer (bus) - Osh - base camp 3400 m and back
- 3 meals a day in the base camp at 3400 m (Achik-Tash) and in the first camp at 4400 m
- we give out ordinary products for the second and third camp (tea, sugar, soups, noodles, cereals, jelly, bread)
- high-altitude guides
- radio stations and a firet-aid kit at the high-altitude guide
- ropes for the passage of a glacier with cracks
- gas cylinders
- accommodation in the base camp 3400 m and in the first camp 4400 m in stationary tents, wooden floors, mattresses (2 people)
- accommodation in established high-altitude tents at an altitude of 5400 m and 6100 m
- Certificate of successful ascent to the top of LENIN

The cost of climbing Lenin Peak does not include:
- air flight to Osh and back
- food in Osh
- high-altitude products (dried apricots, raisins, nuts, chocolate, vacuum packaging with cheese, sausage, stew, condensed milk)
- medical expenses and medical insurance
- urgent expenses (rescue operations, helicopter flights, medicines and medical services in the Osh hospital, preparation of certificates and documents, repatriation)

Medical and transport insurance for climbing Lenin Peak

A mutual assistance fund will be organized (instead of receiving medical insurance from an insurance company, each participant pays 300 euros. In case of an emergency with one of the participants, assistance will be provided (delivery to the hospital) within this amount,
If the climb goes without incident, then 300 euros are returned to the climber.

Apply for a border pass ermachek@mail.ru
Send a copy of your passport

Expedition climbers will be able to rent equipment:
write in advance and inform that you will rent, the amount of equipment is limited. The rental price ranges from 5 euros to 100 euros per unit - for the entire period of fees.

carabiner - 5 euros (need - 3 carbines)
rope descent device - 5 euros
Jumar - 10 euros
insurance system - 10 euros
self-insurance mustache - 5 euros
light ice ax - 15 euros
crampons - 15 euros
helmet - 10 euros
Full set - 75 euros

Karemat – 10 evros
Mountain boots leather, plastic – 30 evros (38.41,42,43,44 sizes)
High-mountain boots 41-42-43- size – 50 evros
sleeping bag for -20 – 30 evos
sleeping bag for -25 – 50 evros

Porter
The first camp 4400 m to Yukhin (5100 m) - for 1 kg - 5 euros
The first camp is 4400 m, the second camp is 5400 m - for 1 kg - 10 euros
The second camp is 5400 m, the third camp is 6100 m - for 1 kg - 15 euros

Personal and special equipment for climbing Lenin's peak:

Special equipment:
- transportable baul or large backpack or bag - assault backpack (at least 50 liters)
- caremat polyuritanian or inflatable
- sleeping bag (down)
- cat climbing
- ice pick
- carbines (3 pieces)
- insurance system (conversation)
- self-insurance (or 3 meters of rope with a diameter of 9 mm)
- jumar (device for climbing on a rope)
- trigger (eight or Invar)
- helmet (climbing or ski) - you only need to cross the closed glacier from 4400 m to 5400 m
- gas burner and pan per liter
- sticks - telescopes - 1-2 pieces.

Main set:
- windproof suit (jacket and pants self-relief)
- down jacket or vest
- jacket and pants made of polar (flis or windblock)
- fleece shirt
- thermal underwear (pants and shirt)
- T-shirts - 2 pieces.
- cap from the sun
- cap (wool or polar)
- mittens -tops (leggings) down
- woolen mittens
- gloves warm from fleece, polar, wool
- socks xb - 4 pairs
- wool socks - 2 pairs
- balaclava (protection of the face from the wind)

Shoes:
- high-rise boots or plastic (leather) shoes (shoes or gamashs to them)
- trekking paints (for the city and the transition from Achik-Tasha to base camp)
- flip-flops for base camp

Additional equipment:
- sunglasses (high-altitude - ski)
- flashlight head-on and spare batteries to them
- sunscreen
- hygienic lipstick
- personal utensils (circle, spoon, bowl, knife)
- hygiene kit (towel, soap, toothbrush and paste)
- thermos with metal flask
Individual pharmacy

For more information, please visit:

www.ermachek.ru     mailbox         ermachek@mail.ru
Senior coach: Yermacek Yuri        Mob. 7-961-763-67-37 (Beeline)

Film about the ascent to LENIN



 

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